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The Indonesian Way

Home Archive for 2011
Cheap food. Student fare. Lesehan. Warung. Gudeg. These have put Yogyakarta on Java’s culinary map. Former Yogya college students yearn for it, wealthy Jakartans flock to town to savor it, while locals take it for granted.
On a stretch of nondescript highway north of Ring Road Utara, a plethora of eating establishments have popped up, earning the area the nickname “Jalan Kuliner” (Culinary Street) and hopefully transforming the face of Yogyakarta dining forever. Those wishing for more food options in this quaint town are excited about the new trend.
Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar (Palagan Tentara Pelajar Street) — previously known for the exalted presence of Hyatt Regency Yogyakarta — is now a diner’s delight. Fifteen food spots have opened in the area since 2005. And the bonus is that thanks to Yogya-ites, who are famous for demanding good food but don’t like spending their hard-earned rupiah for it, most are in the medium-price range.
Plenty of space away from the crowded, noisy city for an establishment with ample parking space; clean, fresh, cooler air; cheaper land prices; and ambience — especially rice-fields and Mt. Merapi views — top the list.
Authentic Indonesian food dominates the scene and is spotlighted at Pecel Solo (Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar No.52), Sasanti Restaurant & Gallery (No.52A, next door to the Hyatt), Bamboo (Km 7.8), Warung Sunda (Km 8), Pak Sadi Asli (Km 8.5 soto ayam ambengan), Istimewa (Km 8.6 ayam geprek istimawa), and Rumah Makan Yu Sri (Km 9, nasi pecel).
Pecel Solo Restaurant, Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar no.52 Yogyakarta

Seafood is well presented, with Jimbaran leading the list of favorites, accompanied by Pelem Golek (Km 7, opened in May 2008), Pari-Pari (Km 8), Umbul Permai (Jl. Umbul Permai), and soon-to-open Kepiting Dogen (Jl. Umbul Permai).
Pelem Golek

Spicy-hot Balinese fare is well represented at Jimbaran, Sapi Bali (Jl. Umbul Permai, barbacued beef ribs), and Ayam Betutu (Jl. Watugede, Gilimanuk-style chicken).
Barbecued beef ribs served at Sapi Bali, Yogyakarta

International cuisine is featured at Sasanti, Hyatt’s Kemangi Bistro (Km 7), Venezia Café (Km 7, Italian), Hani’s North (Km 7.5, Belgian and “world kitchen”), Sawa (opened in June next door to Jimbaran, Japanese, steak and grill, wine lounge), and Arirang (Km 8.5, mixed Asian, including Japanese and Korean).

Developing Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar into Jalan Kuliner is a good investment, the original outlets of several establishments located in the area are in other cities or elsewhere in Yogya. The first Pecel Solo, for example, is in Surakarta, also known as Solo, where the family owns Nasi Kebuli, Primitive Gallery Furniture & Antiques and Bedoyo Batik Craft. They have recently opened a third Pecel Solo in Senayan, Jakarta. Bamboo has two other restaurants in Yogya. Ayam Betutu has two warungs in Bali and one in Lombok. Pak Sadi Asli originated in Surabaya, and Yu Sri first opened in Semarang in 1970.
Venezia Café is an interesting exception. It’s owned by a foundation supported by Oxfam Australia and privides training and employment in the hospitality industry. It occasionally hosts entertainment, such as recent Italian film festival, to support its projects: orphanages, education for underprivileged children and support for those affected by HIV/AIDS.
Many establishments are simple sidewalk eateries, but for an elegant up-market experience (Yogya-style, which means chic-casual), try Sasanti, Hyatt’s Kemangi Bistro, and Sawa, which along with Hani’s also serve beer and wine. Hyatt’s restaurants and lounges, of course, also offer cocktails.

Having difficulty deciding where to be in your eating extravaganza? Here are the current must-trys:
Going north from Ring Road Utara, the first stop at No.52 is Pecel Solo, one of several restaurants owned by a family who treasure antiques and authentic Surakarta cuisine. Diners are invited to sit on benches that line the walls or at a grand wooden table in the center of the joglo. For groups or families, there’s a private dining room in the back. Combining good food with traditional culture, and surrounded by antiques, vintage photographs and more than 600 wooden cowbells, Pecel Solo is warm and welcoming. Choose from a large variety of vegetables and condiments, which are eaten with rice and side dishes, such as small fish, friend chicken, tahu or tempe. Top the meal off with a traditional drink made with palm sugar, ginger and pandan, and heaven is yours.
At No.52A (next door to the Hyatt) is Sasanti Restaurant & Gallery. Traditional Indonesian cooking and Western food prepared for Western tastes, together with a relaxing ambience, are Sasanti’s contributions to Jalan Kuliner. Try the bacem kaki kambing (Javanese braised lamb shank), the salmon filet with tropical fruit, tarragon and caper sauce, sandwiches or salads. And don’t forget to save room for the cheesecake, which is divine. There’s live music on Friday and Saturday nights, the kind that’s soft enough to talk over. Enjoy a glass of wine or beer by the reflecting pool in the evening breezes, in the al fresco joglo or in air-conditioned comfort in the private dining room. Sasanti’s lush gardens make it a perfect setting for weddings and parties.
Hani’s North, at Km 7.5, is well established in Yogya, having opened its first outlet in the south of the city several years ago serving sandwiches on freshly baked breads, salads, quiche, and yummy smoothies and lassies. Over time the menu has expanded, with Hani’s North becoming more of a restaurant than the café the original is. Its eclectic menu includes Belgian, Italian, Indian, and Indonesian cuisine, along with other selections from its World Kitchen menu, which includes roasted turkey, pan-fried Merquez (a French sausage) and Moroccan chicken steak. Hani’s North also has a two-bedroom villa behind the restaurant for rent, overlooking rice fields with views of Mt. Merapi.
Past Hani’s, turn right onto Jl. Damai, heading deeper into the countryside. On the right side is the recently opened Sawa, which promises to be one the area’s more up-market establishments. Presenting steaks and grill, Japanese food and a wine bar nestled between paddy fields, the relaxation of clean, fresh air and excellent cuisine will be part of the dining experience.
Continuing on Jl. Damai is Jimbaran, the first and best-known eating establishment in the area. Jimbaran is famous for its ikan bakar (grilled fish), fresh fish flown in from Bali everyday dan displayed pasar ikan-style both live and on ice. Customers select their own fish, with a large overhead blackboard showing current prices, which are per gram, along with the chef’s recommendations. Selections include crab, mahi-mahi, snapper, king prawns, and mussels, which are cooked to order, either grilled or fried. Jimbaran also serves bebek goreng (fried duck, a la Bali) and chicken. Choose from five different sauces, one of which is ideal for not-sp-spicy seafood lovers. Live entertainment is offered every night from 7-11 p.m.
The first left turn after Jimbaran leads to Sapi Bali. Cleverly combining Balinese spices with American barbeque techniques, Sapi Bali’s specialty is beef ribs, which are not found in primarily Hindu Bali. Two secret blends of spices are used, the first while braising the ribs — which takes five hours, to seal in moisture and tenderize the beef — and the second in the glaze of spices, tomato ketchup and honey giving the meat a crunchy, caramelized coating that is mouth-wateringly delicious. Sapi Bali also serves grilled fish and chicken. Warning for those who arent’s into hot spices, skip the soup, and order Iga Bakar Kecap, beef ribs glazed with sweet soya sauce.
Selamat makan di Jogja!
(Source: Weekender Magazine, August 2008

On the southern part of Central Java lies the magical region of Yogyakarta, one of the foremost cultural centers of Java.

Yogyakarta (also Jogjakarta in pre-1972 spelling or Jogja) is the only province in Indonesia that is still formally governed by a precolonial Sultanate, the Sultanate of Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat.

Yogyakarta is both the name of a province — Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta (DIY), literally the Special Area Yogyakarta — and the name of one of DIY’s 5 Districts, “Kota (or city) Yogyakarta”. The other districts are Sleman on the slopes of fiery Mt Merapi to the North, Bantul all the way to the sea to the South, the hills of Gunungkidul to the East and the low lands of Kulon Progo to the West.

Located at the foot of the active Merapi volcano, Yogyakarta during the 16th and 17th century was the seat of the mighty Javanese empire of Mataram, from which the present day Yogyakarta has inherited the best of traditions. Gamelan music, classical and contemporary Javanese dances, the wayang kulit (leather puppet) theater and other expressions of traditional art will keep the visitor spellbound. Local craftsmen excel in the arts of batiks, silver and leather works.

Yogyakarta city was built with deep philosophy: the city was designed so that the main elements of the city forms a imaginary line. This straight line starts from Parangtritis on the coast, to Kraton Yogyakarta, to Tugu Monument, and finally to Mount Merapi. This represents Sultan’s strong relationship with the guardian spirits of Mt. Merapi and the beach of Parangtritis.

On the streets, people - including government officials and university students - prefer to call this sultanate province Yogya or Jogja, despite its official name Yogyakarta. It disclosed that the name Jogja, instead of Yogyakarta or Yogya, is used in the promotion to market Yogyakarta since Y is a difficult alphabetical start for most international audiences—both reading and spelling. Jogja is easily pronounced, as in JOG-ja, even JOG could be used as nickname.

Getting There

The Adisucipto International Airport is a small and busy airport located just about 8 km towards east of Yogyakarta. This airport is well connected with other major cities like Jakarta, Denpasar, Surabaya, and other in Sumatra, Kalimantan and Sulawesi. For international destinations, the airport has to and fro flights connections from Malaysia.

The main bus station of Yogyakarta is at Giwangan, which is over 4 km towards the southeast of the center of the city. Here, you can find regular bus service to Jakarta, Bandung, and Surabaya.

The train facility from Yogyakarta's Tugu station is also good enough and it offers regular service. Trains to Jakarta take between 7 to 12 hour, while going to Surabaya by train will take you on a 6-hour trip. Most of the train services here are fast and comfortable. Trains are available at daytime as well as for overnight journeys.

Getting Around

Being a small city, Yogyakarta makes it easy and cost effective for travelers to get around in the city. One can hire taxis, which run on meter, to move around as these are safe and secure mode of transport. Besides, you can ride the Trishaws, Horse Carts, Buses and so on.

The average daily temperature range between 26 degree and 28 degree Celsius with its minimum 18 degree C and maximum 35 degree C. Average humidity is 74% with its minimum of 65% and maximum 84%.

There are many good hotels in Yogyakarta offering different facilities to suit the requirement and comfort of tourists. Some of the good hotels like Melia Puosani, Grand Mercure Yogyakarta, Rumah Sleman Private Boutique Hotel and Dusun Jogja Village Inn are only a few amongst others in the city.

Attractions of the city

As one of the oldest cities in Indonesia, this city possesses many heritage buildings and monuments. Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono's palace, better known as Kraton Ngayogyakarta is one of the must-see attractions here. Other heritage buildings including BNI '46 building, Kantor Pos Besar (Central Post Office) building, and Bank Indonesia building are also worth taking a look. Other notable landmarks in Yogyakarta include Tugu Monument, Benteng Vredeburg, Kotagede, Imogiri, Kotabaru and so on.

Some of the popular museums that can be visited in Yogyakarta are namely Museum Dirgantara, Museum Sonobudoyo, and Museum Kekayon. Some of the ancient temples in the city are Borobudur, Prambanan, Candi Sambisari, Candi Kalasan, Candi Sari, and so on. Tourists can also visit various art galleries that has beautiful collection of different arts and crafts.
  • The Kraton Complex
  • Benteng Vredeburg (Vredeburg Fort)
  • Museum Sonobudoyo
  • Kotagede
  • Affandi Museum
  • Imogiri
  • Malioboro
The Kraton Complex

At Yogyakarta's center is the Kraton complex, or Sultan's palace. Surrounding the kraton is a densely-populated residential neighborhood that occupies land that was formerly the Sultan's sole domain; evidence of this former use remains in the form of old walls and the ruined Water Castle (Tamansari), built in 1758 as a pleasure garden. No longer used by the sultan, the garden had been largely abandoned, and was used for housing by palace employees and descendants. Reconstruction efforts began in 2004, and an effort to renew the neighborhood around the kraton has begun. The site is a developing tourist attraction.

The Kraton holds some important attractions including Sultan's Carriage Museum, Taman Sari, Alun-alun, Masjid Gede Kauman etc.
  • Kraton Yogyakarta. A calm yet elegant Javanese heritage that consists of two separate entrances: the Main Court (Pagilaran & Siti Hinggil), and the Residence. The Main Court showcases the grandeur of Sultan’s monarchy, while the Residence is more homey while still exhibiting the royal family’s luxurious lifestyle. Open 8.30 AM to 1 PM daily, on Friday the attraction is closed at 11 AM. While the guide is part of the entrance fee, they might expecting tips. Some guide might offer extended trip to sultan’s servants batik workshop, this is a scam as they only bring you to a regular batik shop with steep price. It’s a good idea to refuse their offer politely. Rp 12500 foreign tourist price) or Rp 5000 (Indonesian tourist price), Rp 1000 extra for a photo permit (price as of June 15, 2008).
  • Sultan’s Carriage Museum (Museum Kereta). This museum houses Sultan’s horse-drawn carriages, including two beautiful carriages imported from the Netherlands and known as Golden Carts (kereta kencana).
  • Taman Sari, Jalan Taman, Kraton Yogyakarta 55133. Also known by the Dutch name waterkasteel (water castle), this is a partly ruined complex built as a pleasure garden by the first Sultan in 1765. One of the bathing pools was dedicated to the sultan’s harem, and he had a tower overlooking the area so he could take his pick. Entrance fee does not cover the guide, who will expect tips. Open 9 AM to 3 PM daily. Rp 7000 for entrance, Rp 1000 for a photo permit (price as of June 15, 2008).
  • Alun-Alun or the Sultan’s square. There are two squares: Alun-alun Utara and Alun-alun Selatan or the northern and southern square, consecutively. If you are lucky, you can see the Gerebeg Maulud parade during Prophet Muhammad’s birthday.
  • Masjid Gede Kauman, one of the oldest and largest mosque in Yogyakarta. Located on the west of Alun-alun Utara, this mosque was where the Sultan performs his religious rites and ceremonies. Non-muslim visitors should wear decent clothing. It may be a good idea to ask the mosque authorities prior to entering the mosque due to some rules that must be abide.
  • The Ramayana ballet is worth attending even if you're not a fan of traditional Asian stage performances. Rp20,000 gets you a 90-minute show with a talented dance troupe and full gamelan orchestra. It's a casual, well-organised atmosphere and you can meet the performers and even dance with them on the stage.
Benteng Vredeburg (Vredeburg Fort)

Benteng (=fort) Vredeburg is A Dutch fort located in front of Gedung Agung. It’s a great example of the Dutch colonial architecture. A few warfare items are still preserved, including a twin cannon. Located on Jalan Jenderal Ahmad Yani 6, Yogyakarta 55122, Ph:  +62 274 586934  +62 274 586934 , 510996.
Museum Sonobudoyo

This museum, founded in November 1935 and designed by the Dutch architect Kersten, is built in traditional Javanese architecture. It exhibits weapons, leather and wooden puppets of wayang theater, masks, statues, textiles, curios and old Javanese gamelan instruments. The museum is situated on the northern side of the city's main square in front of the Sultan's Palace.
Kotagede

Kotagede, about five kilometers southeast of Yogyakarta, is a neat little town which was once the capital of ancient Islamic Mataram kingdom. The tomb of Mataram Kingdom’s first king, Panembahan Senopati, is also located in this place. Before independence, Kotagede was the central economic district of Yogyakarta, as it held the largest marketplace and was home to many wealthy batik merchants. Although some ancient buildings have been modernized or replaced with newer buildings, Kotagede remains a prime example of ancient Javanese architecture and city structure.

Since the 1930s, Kotagede has become famous for being the center of the Yogya silverwork industry. There are a number of workshops where visitors are welcome to watch silver being transformed into beautiful works of art known as Yogya Silver. Kotagede is easily reached by andong, the four wheeled horse-drawn cart, by taxi, bus, or car.
Affandi Museum

On the main road between the airport and the city stands the Affandi Museum (1907 - 1990) in a lush garden next to his peculiar private home on stilts. He was Indonesia's foremost impressionist painter who built a private museum for his own paintings and of those of his daughter Kartika. Affandi's grave (died in May 1990) lies in the backyard next to the museum.
Imogiri

Imogiri is the official cemetery of the royal descendants from Yogyakarta and Surakarta, located about 17 kms southeast of Yogyakarta and easily accessible by bus or car. The royal graveyard is located on a hilltop, reachable by 345 stone steps leading to it. The tombs are built within three main courtyards. It suffered damage during the 2006 earthquake but has reopened.

Entry into the smaller courtyards housing the tombs of the princes is allowed only on Monday 09.00 - 12.00 or Friday 13.00 - 16.00. Traditional Javanese dress has to be worn, which however can be hired on the spot at a modest fee. The cemetery is closed during the Moslem month of Ramadhan.
Malioboro

Malioboro is a well-known shopping promenade and very popular among Indonesian as well as international tourists. Malioboro is 2 kilometers in length and home to hundreds of shops and street-stalls which offers various kind of handicrafts. Several notable places in Malioboro are:
  • Pasar Beringharjo (Beringharjo Marketplace), Jalan Pabringan 1, Yogyakarta 55122 (north of Vredeburg Fort). Literally means slanted land, Beringaharjo is the largest traditional marketplace in Yogyakarta. The vendors sell many kind of goods, ranging from basic household items (vegetables, fruits, meats) to many kind of handicrafts. Haggle furiously.
  • Mirota Batik (opposite Pasar Beringharjo), Jalan Ahmad Yani 9, Yogyakarta 55122. The large family-owned store offers plenty of handicrafts, not only from Yogyakarta but also from all part of Indonesia.
  • Dagadu (lower ground floor Malioboro Mall). Offers funny contemporary t-shirts and souvenirs that revolves around Yogyakarta people’s culture.
  • Ciamis Art Shop (153 Jl. Malioboro). Shadow puppets, masks, carvings, and more at fixed prices that are lower than in the market. Open from 9:00 – 13:00 and 18:00 – 21:00.
  • Nadzar (187 Jl. Malioboro). Huge souvenir shop specializing in batik, art, jewelry, and more. Has every souvenir you could imagine and all at fixed prices.
If travelling on foot is not your thing, you can ride the pedal-powered trishaw called becak, or the andong horsecart.

With its last eruption in 2007, Mount Bromo is an active volcano in East Java, Indonesia. Bromo isn’t the highest mountain in Java — that honor goes to nearby Mount Semeru at 3,676m — but it’s probably the most famous one. Bromo is in fact only one of many peaks inside the massive Tengger Caldera, but it’s easily recognized as the entire top has been blown off and the crater inside constantly belches white sulphurous smoke. The picturesque vision of a mountain with white sulphurous smoke is simply breathtaking. The inside of the caldera, aptly dubbed the Laut Pasir (Sea of Sand) is coated with fine volcanic sand and the overall effect is unsettlingly unearthly, especially when compared to the lush green valleys all around the caldera.


The uniqueness of the area is said to be the characteristics reminiscent of a moonscape. The legend behind Mount Bromo is also to be one of the reasons as to why this eruptive mountain seems to be more famous than others. The legend goes that the mountain gods who were denied the sacrificial 25th child of the 15th century princess named Roro Anteng and her husband Joko Seger, sent fire and brimstone to consume the child while demanding an annual ceremony to be performed to pacify the gods. The performance of the ceremony can be seen up to date.

Apart from the main sight, Mount Bromo itself, Mount Semeru, the tallest mountain in Java and one of the most active volcanoes in Indonesia is a must-see when visiting Tengger Caldera. At the foot of the mountain is a Hindu temple that also attracts many visitors. Mount Batok, situated at the northern centre of the caldera is yet another sight that is worth a visit. Its growing vegetation such as the cemara trees that thrive in volcanic ash is of particular interest to most.


TRAVEL TIPS
Getting There
To reach Mount Bromo, you can fly to Juanda international airport in Surabaya. There are direct flights to Surabaya from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hongkong, Jakarta and Bali. Another option is to reach Bromo via Malang, East Java. Sriwijaya Air flies twice daily from Jakarta to Malang. 
From Surabaya/Malang, continue your journey to Mount Bromo by booking with a travel agent, or driving the Surabaya-Pasuruan-Wonokitri-Mount Bromo route. The journey will take 2-3 hours. It is best for you to leave Surabaya at 23:00-24:00 in order to arrive in time for sunrise. Or you can stay overnight at one of the hotels at Prigen, Tretes, to make sure that you are on the crater rim before sunrise.
Ponies can take you across the sand sea to the bottom of the steep stairs that leads to the crater.

Bromo map taken from here



Where To Stay
There are a number of guesthouses and basic hotels located around Mt Bromo. The Bromo Guest House is located at Ngadisari that lies 3 km from the crater rim. Or you can choose other hotels at Cemoro Lawang because it this situated at the crater rim.
Visitors can also stay at Tretes, Pasuruan or in Malang, the nearest towns to Bromo, and cool mountain resorts, where there are a number of good hotels with spectacular views on Mt. Semeru and Mt. Arjuna.


What To Do
Watching the sun rises spectacularly over Mt Bromo is the highlight of any trip here. Visit in the month of Kasada (usually in September-November) and witness the annual Kasada festival where the local Tenggerese come to Bromo to throw offerings of vegetables, chickens and money into the crater of the volcano.
When timing any activities in the area, bear in mind that sunset is soon after 5 PM and sunrise is correspondingly early at around 5:30 AM. This means you’ll usually need to get up by 3:30 AM or so to get there in time for dawn.
  • Mount Batok (2440m) is a brown volcanic cone at the north center of the caldera. Unlike the other nearby peaks it is no longer active and actually has some vegetation growing on it, mostly the local cemara tree that somehow manages to survive even on volcanic ash.
  • Mount Bromo, edges tinged with white sulphur and always bubbling, is the main sight. To reach it on foot, pick the left fork at Cemoro Lawang’s solitary crossing, then head down the ramp into the caldera and then across the caldera to the Hindu temple at the foot of the mountain. From the temple a steep path of 250 steps leads to the edge of the crater and a precarious meter-wide ledge from where to gaze into the volcano. Beware of local jeep-hirers, who often try to persuade tourists the journey to the mountain is not walking distance (in order to hire them jeeps, or horses). The walk from the tourist centre to the top of the mountain should take no longer than 1.5 hours by foot, and is about 3km.
  • Mount Penanjakan (2770m), located just north of the caldera, is a mountaintop viewpoint accessible by paved road from Tosari and hence popular with jeeps and even tour buses. Most of the crowd comes to see the dawn at 5 AM, and you’ll likely have the large concrete observation post to yourself if you arrive later in the day.
  • Viewpoint #2, along the trail from Cemoro Lawang to Mt. Penanjakan, is anexcellent way to get a stunning view of the caldera without the crowds. To reach it, head west from Cemoro Lawang (past Cemero Indah) for 6 km, past farms and fields. The paved road eventually turns into a twisty mountain trail that ends with a flight of stairs on the right, and the viewpoint (with concrete shelter) is at the top. Allow 1.5 hours for the climb up at a steady pace, and bring along a torch if attempting this at night.
    • From here, you can continue onto Mt. Penanjakan by following the trail upward, after which the trail merges onto the paved road to the viewpoint (total time about 60 minutes one way). If planning to return the same way, mark the spot where the trail emerges onto the road (if you pass a stone lantern on the way down, you’ve gone too far!), and note that descending on this section can get slippery due to loose sand and rocks.


What To Eat
The restaurants near Mount Bromo open from 3 am. They generally provide various types of Indonesian traditional dishes such as Ketoprak, fried rice, Rujak Cingur, Bandrek, etc.

What To Wear
The temperature at Mt Bromo ranges from 3 to 20 degrees Celsius. The temperature may even be several degrees below zero during the dry season. If you can’t stand cold weather, you should bring a jacket, gloves and a head cover or cap. After the sun rises, the weather becomes hot pretty fast.
Situated about 2 kilometers off the coast of East Kalimantan, Pulau Derawan (Derawan island) attracts tourists as gateaway to the Derawan Islands, a chain of 30-something islands and atoll renowned for its marine life, including four well-known island of Maratua, Derawan, Charitable, and Kakaban. Derawan is home to several endangered species like green turtles, hawksbill turtles, whales, dolphins, clams, coconut crabs and mermaids.

Diving at Derawan

The Derawan islands and its surrounding waters are famous for mantarays and endangered green turtles. Further offshore, Pulau Kakaban is home to an ecologically significant lake of salty water featuring four unique species of jellyfish that has lost its sting due to lack of predators. The four species are Cassiopeia ornate, Mastigias papua, Aurelia aurita, and Tripedalia cystophora.

Many top dive sites here are at moderate depths of 15-20 meters. Even snorkelers stand a good chance of catching rays gently batting their wings to glide like birds through the brine. Scuba divers can fly right along with the mantas. Formerly host to an international diving resort, Sangalaki now accommodates a Turtle Foundation anti-poaching monitoring station stuffed by local and international conservation groups, backed by special maritime police patrols.

The best dive time: April to December




Tranquility at Derawan Island

If you’re looking for a taste of village life before TV soaps and air con became part of the social fabric, crossing paths with turtles en route to your room and fresh food served family style amid some of best diving on the planet, then make a trip to Derawan. Pulau Nabucco and Pulau Maratua have fancy dive resorts out in the archipelago. But if you stay there, you miss the charms of Pulau Derawan and its villagers. Using Derawan as your base carries the additional bonus of fishing for dinner off the back of your boat on the way home.

Derawan’s fishing village of about 300 families transports visitors back to simpler times. The island is only lightly touched by the 21st century, or even the 20th for that matter. It’s also lightly touched by transport, so getting there poses a major challenge. But that degree of difficulty helps Derawan maintain its charm.




A teardrop-shaped island of 45 hectares that can be circled on foot in less than an hour, Derawan has electricity from dusk to dawn only (accommodations that run generators during daylight hours violate the spirit of the island). Without TV or air con to distract them, Derawan islanders spend their time on the front porches inside their wooden plank houses on stilits above the sand. They talk to their neighbors and to visitors who happen by. With just two paths, one following the coast and the other leading to the coconut plantation at the center of the island, both lined with houses, not much goes unnoticed. Kids easily find playmates and invent games. If all you’re looking for is a chill, follow the path out of town to a white sand beach.

Days are marked less by the clock or the prayer calls. In the early mornings, boats return from a night of fishing, reserve some of the catch, most likely tuna, for the island and send the rest to Berau, the closest city on the Borneo “mainland”. By mid-afternoon, the boats return, and a couple of wooden carts soon roll around the village, laden with newly arrived fruits, vegetables, and market news. The island has no cars and only a few motorcycles, which, like generators, run against the spirit of the place.


A quiet morning at Derawan





TRAVEL TIPS
Getting There

Fly to Balikpapan, and on to Berau (also known as Tanjung Redep). Once you reach Berau, you have two options. One is to take a three-hour crossing on a speedboat from Berau to Derawan. Option number two, you could take an overland travel approximately two hours from Berau to Tanjung Batu port, then continue with a 30-minute speedboat ride to reach Derawan.

Places to Stay

Derawan Dive Resort
Primarily selling multinight packages to divers, the resort also rents its rustic, air-conditioned bungalows to walk-ins, when available. The open-air dining area has spectacular sunset views. Tel: (542) 707 2615, www.divederawan.com

Losmen Danakan
Warm and welcoming family-run guesthouse built on pilings over the sea. Linger outside your austere all-wood room to drink in the salt air and scenery. Three simple. fresh meals a day are included, served at long dining table that encourage mingling and swapping tables. Tel: (868) 121 6143

Both places offer complete diving services, including excursions throughout the Derawan archipelago.

The island of Weh (Pulau Weh) hosts a rich collection of diverse Indo-Pacific marine life. Deep oceanic trenches that surround the island bring nutrient rich waters which in turn attract ocean giants such as mantas, whale sharks, mola mola and even the illusive mega mouth shark has been spotted here on more than one occasion.

Pulau Weh is also well known for its moray eels which pepper the dive sites, honey comb, fimbriated, ghost pipefish, leaf fish, star gazers, frog fish, giant and ribbon eels all make common sightings. Typical topographical features below the surface include reef walls, sloping house reefs, underwater hot springs and a deep and shallow wrecks. With such a variety of first class dive sites, the journey to Pulau Weh is surely worth the extra effort.

THE ISLAND

The name Pulau Weh, or Weh Island, is actually more popular among western tourists who know it by its geographical name. Most Indonesians would know it by its administrative name, Sabang, which is actually the island’s main town. Sabang is the Kilometer Zero Point of Indonesia, marked with a monument which signifies the start of Indonesian archipelago that spans through over 17,000 different islands.



Flight route to Pulau Weh

Once part of the Sumatran mainland, Pulau Weh became separated during a period of seismic activity around 1 million years ago and now lies 20 kilometers offshore from the northern tip of Sumatra. The deep oceanic trenches that surround the island bring nutrient rich waters which in turn attracts tiny critters as well as large pelagics such as mantas, mola mola and whale sharks when the seasons right. The island is located at where the Andaman Sea meets the Indian Ocean, so the deep waters and currents around the island sustain a thriving marine life.

Since the early 1990s, some European tourists have begun to visit the island, drawn to its unexplored beaches and underwater attractions. The long conflict in Aceh between the separatists and Indonesian military never really spread to this island, but it has stunted development here, especially in the tourism sector. That is good news for divers: it means relatively pristine coral reefs and diving trips where you are unlikely to bump into other groups of divers underwater.
The island also offers many attractions for those who prefer to stay above the surface. With an active volcano, there are hot springs to relax in, jungle trails to the high peaks and lots of wild life to see along the way including long tail macaques, monitor lizards and sea eagles. In short, Pulau Weh and its surrounding islands offer a complete tourism potential, ranging from forests, beaches and of course the beauty of underwater adventure.

UNDERWATER

Diving is not a trivial matter in Pulau Weh. There are up to 20 dive spots around the island. One of them is Batee Tokong, a clump of rocks about a 20-minute boat ride from the Gapang beach. Many interesting creatures can be found here, including Moray eels, the giant eel-like predatory fish that hides inside crevices while sticking out their beastly head and jaw. They were everywhere in this spot, and of various species too. The water was crystal clear and visibility was as far as 25 meters. The current was pretty mild.

Another spot is Arus Balee, a water passage around a rocky pinnacle. It was named after the Acehnese word Arus Palee, which means bastard current. The narrow passage facilitates strong current, as well as drawing in sharks and other sea creatures. Here, divers are advised to stay close to the bottom to avoid getting caught in the current. This is a place to enjoy schools of colorful fishes like a neon bright fusilier. It has the feel of a botanical park with a rillian garden of gorgonian fans that spread out majestically.

At Batee Gla dive site, visibility exceeded 35 meters and the currents were swirling round the finger shaped cluster of rocks at the north west point of the island. Along the reef slopes of Rubiah Sea Garden, divers got a chance to spot some the rare marine life that you might only expect from a dive in Indonesian waters. Dart Gobies, Frogfish, Carrier Crabs, Morays of all kinds and many other critters.

Another highlight is the Hot Springs dive site, which has sulphur passed up through the volcanic vents below. Bubbles rise up from large cracks in the sea bed, your very own Jacuzzi in the sea. Pantee Peunateng can also offer a wild experience. This high adrenaline dive site is highly exposed making it an intense experience even when conditions are calmer than most. A fringing reef with dramatic craggy wall sections it has typically strong currents that attract many species of pelagic fish. Black and whitetips are often seen whilst larger fish include whale sharks, mola mola and mantas.

Other are The Canyon (an underwater volcanic stone structure began from 15m up to 50m depth, schooling many big fish, Chub, napoleon wrasse, white-tip shark, mantas, moray, giant travelly, parrotfish bumphead plus sometimes pretty big currents), Flow Balee (for those who like to enjoy the beauty of diving in currents), Beach Ideu (massive gorgonian and exceptional fish), etc. You do not have to go too far from the shore to immerse in the marine life.

The currents around Pulau Weh draw big plankton feeders such as whale sharks and manta rays, which frequent the area in January. Dolphins, sometimes with pods numbering in the hundreds, are also commonly sighted here. Whale sharks have reportedly been seen in the months of September, October, and November, and even once during a night dive only 30 meters off the beach.

There are also two wrecks. The WWII wreck Sophie Rickmer is 134m long cargo vessel that lies in deep waters just off the township of Sabang. With the straight bow lying at over 50m it does require some decompression procedures, but once down you get the chance to meet up with some oversize residents including groupers, morays and sharks. A little shallower at 15m lies the Tug Boat, this is a dive to look for macro life with pipefish, sea horses and scorpion fish not uncommon finds.


THE BEST DIVE TIME

Diving in Pulau Weh can be done throughout the year. However, extra caution is advisable during the rainy season at the end of the year until the beginning of the year.

GETTING THERE

To reach Pulau Weh, the closest entry point is from Banda Aceh, the provincial capital, which can be reached through land routes, sea and air. From Banda Aceh's Balohan Port, take a ferry to Sabang Port. The ferry can carry both passengers and vehicles for the 2-hour ride. Proceed the journey overland using minibuses or taxis to the beach of your choice, with an approximate 45-minute trip.

When you arrive in Sabang Port, there are many cars and minibuses waiting for passengers. With each ferry arrival, a specific minibus (and/or taxi) is appointed to go to the Gapang & Iboih beaches. For taxis count on a minimum of Rp 150.000-200.000 or if shared with others, and Rp 50.000 per person for a Kijang car to take you directly to Gapang Beach. In a minibus it's also Rp 50.000 per person, with negotiation sometimes Rp 40.000 per person. It takes another 40 minutes drive to get to Gapang or Iboih Beach.
Gapang Beach


Iboih Beach
 
ACCOMMODATION AND DIVE OPERATORS

There are two beaches where dive operators are based here, the Iboih and the Gapang. Iboih is home to the first dive operator in Pulau Weh, the Rubiah Tirta Divers. Located in a 1,300 ha protected park it is more frequented by backpackers than Gapang. Iboih is closest to Pulau Rubiah, which is Weh’s reef-encircled sister island. The beach has a few small cafes and restaurants serving international and western style food. You can stay at the two famous lodgings in Iboih:
  • The Pade Dive Resort
    Built in 2011, The Pade Dive Resort is a distinct addition to Aceh and a smart choice for travelers. Situated only 20.00 Km from the city center, guests are well located to enjoy the town's attractions and activities. The Pade Dive Resort offers impeccable service and all the essential amenities to invigorate travelers. Meeting facilities, Wi-Fi in public areas, tours, coffee shop, room service are just a few of the facilities that set The Pade Dive Resort apart from other hotels in the city. The ambiance of The Pade Dive Resort is reflected in every guestroom. hair dryer, balcony/terrace, television LCD/plasma screen, desk, internet access – wireless (complimentary) are just some of the facilities at your disposal. The hotel offers an excellent variety of recreational facilities, including garden, water sports (non-motorized).
    Room rates start from USD 68. Reserve a room HERE.
  • Iboih Inn
    For travelers who want to take in the sights and sounds of Aceh, Iboih Inn is the perfect choice. The facilities and services provided by Iboih Inn ensure a pleasant stay for guests. The hotel offers access to a vast array of services, including bicycle rental, tours, restaurant, laundry service, Wi-Fi in public areas. The complete list of recreational facilities is available at the hotel, including garden, water sports (non-motorized).
    Room rates start from USD 29. Reserve a room HERE.

Gapang beach has a wider variety of accommodation, from basic wooden huts on the beach, or simple bungalows spread out along the hill overlooking the bay, to those with spring beds, shower and a choice of fans or air conditioners. Prices range from 3.5 euros to 20 euros per night. The beach is a short stretch of white sand with large overhanging trees, the Gapang trees, and small cafes offering the standard fare of fried rice, fried noodles, pancakes, and curry. Although alcohol is banned in Aceh because of syariah law, it is generally sold at some of these cafes.

The bungalow at Lumba-lumba Dive Resorts, for example, costs 30 Euros (~USD 40). About five by six sqm, it has neither AC nor TV, but it has a small pantry with a fridge, a modern toilet and shower, and numerous (we’re talking numerous!) power sockets at various locations on the wall. Underwater photographers and gadget freaks need not be worried about recharging their gear here.

This is a complete tourist attraction for those fans of lake and mountains. In one visit, tourists can enjoy one lake and seven mountains. It is rightly named Lake Gunung Tujuh (Seven Mountains Lake), located in Kerinci regency, Jambi. It is a spectacular caldera lake, which is also the highest lake in Southeast Asia (1996 meters above sea level). Fog always covers this lake area of approximately 960 hectares.

The seven mountains are Mount Hulu Tebo (2525 m), Mount Hulu Sangir (2330 m), Mount Madura Besi (2418 m), Mount Lumut (2350 m), Mount Selasih (2230 m), Mount Jar Panggang (2469 m), and Mount Tujuh (2735 m). Among these seven mountains, the most unique is Mount Lumut. Its slopes are covered with various types of moss.

Lake Gunung Tujuh fit for those who prefer adventure travel. It is convenient for tourists who like to stay in tents. Many camping ground provided there. The pristine area around the lake is known as the habitat of Sumatran Tigers (Panthera tigris sumatrensis), Sumatran Elephants, primates, endemic birds of Sumatra. The lake is probably one of the few remaining large, undisturbed lake in Sumatra.

To reach the lake, visitors have to travel about 56 kilometers inland from Sungai Penuh (Penuh River) to the District of Kayu Aro. Travel with a vehicle must stop at Pelompek Village. From the village, we have to continue the journey on foot for about 2-3 hours. No need to be afraid of getting lost, because the trail is clearly visible and directly leads to the lake. We can also ask local citizens to escort us to the lake, with negotiable costs. The Kerinci District Tourism Board would be pleased to assign its employees to drive visitors to the lake. Officials from the Department of Tourism can be also be our guide of Lake Gunung Tujuh.

Among the local people, the lake is also known as Sacred Lake. They claimed of often found strange phenomenas, such as sudden changes in weather. They believe the lake is inhabited by spirits in form of human named Lbei Sakti and Saleh Sri Menanti. These spirits have a few followers in form of tigers.
There is also a mystery story related to "short people". It is said, the short people are only half a meter high. Their shapes are mix between humans and orangutans. Oddly, the soles of their feet are facing backwards, and believed to be moving fast like lightning. Various official studies have not managed to reveal the existence of these creatures.

Sunset at Second Largest Lake
At the Kerinci Regency, there is another unique lake, Lake Kerinci, which is the second largest lake in Sumatra, after Lake Toba. One of the best place to view this lake is Cape Hatta. It is named after Mohammad Hatta, Indonesia's first vice president.
This 5000 square meters Lake Kerinci can be reached through three alternative routes. First, from Jambi to the Penuh River. Second route, from Padang to Tapan. And third, from Padang to Muaralabuh.
Evening time is most convenient to visit Cape Hatta. From the heights of the cape, we can view the exquisite scenery as the sun set on the Lake Kerinci. Cape Hatta is located in Sangaran Agung Village, approximately 18 kilometers from Penuh River.
Raja Ampat, or ‘Four Kings’ as it translates, refers to the four islands: Misool, Batanta, Salawati and Waigeo. They are located to the northwest tip of Indonesia’s west Papua, also known as the ‘Bird’s Head’. In recent years scientists have began to believe that this region may hold the world’s richest marine biodiversity. This in turn has led to a significant amount of interest from the diving community, even in spite of its remote proximity.

Raja Ampat archipelago stretching on the west side of West Papua Province. This archipelago has a total area of land and sea around 9.8 million acres. Famous as the heart of the world's coral triangle (from the world's 537 known coral species, 75% were in Reja Ampat) and is recognized as one of the locations with the highest diversity of marine life.
          Raja Ampat is one of the regencies in the province of West Papua, Indonesia. This district capital is located in Waisai. With a total of 610 islands, only 35 islands are inhabited. Others are uninhabited and unnamed. The district has a population of 31,000 with a total area of about 46,000 km2; 6000 km2 land, while the other 40,000 km2 is water. From Waisai, travelers must take a boat ride as far as 71 km to arrive in Mansuar, Raja Ampat.


The Dive Sites
          All divers recognize the Raja Ampat is one of the best dive destination in the world. Until now diving in Indonesia has been held in very high regard by the international dive community, Raja Ampat is just another frontier destination so far relatively undiscovered on offer to the diver willing step off the path.

          The reef ecosystems in this area are fed by powerful currents that bring an abundance of coral larvae from the Pacific and Indian Ocean. Above the surface one can expect dramatic limestone cliffs, blue lagoons, and underwater caves whilst underwater a myriad of reef fish and colourful corals bring this incredible part of the world to life. There are also relics of the plane wreck of World War II.
          Raja Ampat is well known for both its pelagics and macro life. Manta Rays are common sightings at many of the dive sites as they come to feed on the plankton rich waters. Shark numbers have been steadily increasing over the years as a result of the positive actions taken by community groups in the area including dive resorts and liveaboards that operate in the area.

          Pygmy Seahorses are icons for diving in Indonesia. Others are such as Frog Fish, Ghost Pipefish, Star Gazers and more. The weedy pygmy seahorse is an even newer discovery. First recorded in the Banda Sea in 2000, they are now regularly seen at Wakatobi and the Lembeh Strait. The Raja Ampat area is another good place to find them. This species is the smallest and most cryptic. They seem to move around more than other species, making them even harder to pinpoint.


- Manta Point. Located in Arborek in Dampier strait, you can dive while watching the acrobatic attraction manta ray, the giant stingrays. You can also see some unique species such as Pigmy seahorses (mini sea horses), and endemic fish species in Raja Ampat, namely eviota king, a type of gobbie fish.
- Sardines Reef. With the fast and warm current, make time to watch wobbegong shark with root-like beard around his mouth. Divers can also find white tip shark, lion fish, blue dot sting rays, stone fish, and anemone fish in this spot.
- Bird of Paradise Bay. Meet the belle of the Raja Ampat: Kalabia, the walking shark! This endemic fish species which had once stunned the world is a new species from genus hemiscylliidae. This fish can be found in nocturnal conditions around Little Lagoon, Fam Island Area, and Ju Island, Kawe Island Area.

How to Get There
          Visiting these islands is not too difficult although it takes time and considerable cost. We can use the airline flights from Jakarta to Sorong via Manado. Other options are Jakarta-Makassar-Sorong or Jakarta-Denpasar-Sorong. From Airport Domne Eduard Osok, Sorong, the trip continued with 1.5 to 2 hour speedboat ride at the rate of ± Rp 3 million (one way) to Waisai, the district capital. Facilities available are fast ships with a capacity of 10, 15, or 30 people. From Waisai, it will take about 3-4 hours to reach Mansuar, Raja Ampat. Generally, travelers choose to explore by renting the Raja Ampat liveaboard. Others choose to stay resorts are available in several islands, of course, the following tour packages.

The best dive time: April to October

Accommodation
          Papua Diving Resort, the only exotic resort that offers underwater tours in the region, visited by tourists and diving enthusiasts for days and some of them even stayed for months. They seemed to not want to go back to their own countries because they have found an "island paradise second to none on this earth." Max Ammer, owner of Papua Diving Resort, is also the pioneer in driving marine tourism in this region. He started his business eight years ago, and now each year the resort welcomes at least 4000 tourists who spent an average of two weeks.

          Lodging is very simple, only woven walls and thatch roofs that cost a minimum of 75 EUR or IDR 900,000 a night. If you want to dive the price is 30 EUR or approximately IDR 360,000 was diving at a particular location. Most tourists come from Europe. Only a few tourists from Indonesia to stay and dive in there. Usually tourists dive almost every day because the dive sites are very broad and diverse with beautiful coral reefs.
          In 2004, Papua Diving built a new modern inn not far from the first location. The inn, which was built by relying on local building materials, are almost always fully booked though it costs 225 EUR or about IDR 2.7 million per night. The new inn is equipped with international telephone connections and internet facilities.



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