Cooking Up Surprises in Jogja

Cheap food. Student fare. Lesehan. Warung. Gudeg. These have put Yogyakarta on Java’s culinary map. Former Yogya college students yearn for it, wealthy Jakartans flock to town to savor it, while locals take it for granted.

On a stretch of nondescript highway north of Ring Road Utara, a plethora of eating establishments have popped up, earning the area the nickname “Jalan Kuliner” (Culinary Street) and hopefully transforming the face of Yogyakarta dining forever. Those wishing for more food options in this quaint town are excited about the new trend.

Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar (Palagan Tentara Pelajar Street) — previously known for the exalted presence of Hyatt Regency Yogyakarta — is now a diner’s delight. Fifteen food spots have opened in the area since 2005. And the bonus is that thanks to Yogya-ites, who are famous for demanding good food but don’t like spending their hard-earned rupiah for it, most are in the medium-price range.

Plenty of space away from the crowded, noisy city for an establishment with ample parking space; clean, fresh, cooler air; cheaper land prices; and ambience — especially rice-fields and Mt. Merapi views — top the list.

Authentic Indonesian food dominates the scene and is spotlighted at Pecel Solo (Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar No.52), Sasanti Restaurant & Gallery (No.52A, next door to the Hyatt), Bamboo (Km 7.8), Warung Sunda (Km 8), Pak Sadi Asli (Km 8.5 soto ayam ambengan), Istimewa (Km 8.6 ayam geprek istimawa), and Rumah Makan Yu Sri (Km 9, nasi pecel).

Pecel Solo Restaurant, Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar no.52 Yogyakarta

Seafood is well presented, with Jimbaran leading the list of favorites, accompanied by Pelem Golek (Km 7, opened in May 2008), Pari-Pari (Km 8), Umbul Permai (Jl. Umbul Permai), and soon-to-open Kepiting Dogen (Jl. Umbul Permai).

Pelem Golek

Spicy-hot Balinese fare is well represented at Jimbaran, Sapi Bali (Jl. Umbul Permai, barbacued beef ribs), and Ayam Betutu (Jl. Watugede, Gilimanuk-style chicken).

Barbecued beef ribs served at Sapi Bali, Yogyakarta

International cuisine is featured at Sasanti, Hyatt’s Kemangi Bistro (Km 7), Venezia Café (Km 7, Italian), Hani’s North (Km 7.5, Belgian and “world kitchen”), Sawa (opened in June next door to Jimbaran, Japanese, steak and grill, wine lounge), and Arirang (Km 8.5, mixed Asian, including Japanese and Korean).

Developing Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar into Jalan Kuliner is a good investment, the original outlets of several establishments located in the area are in other cities or elsewhere in Yogya. The first Pecel Solo, for example, is in Surakarta, also known as Solo, where the family owns Nasi Kebuli, Primitive Gallery Furniture & Antiques and Bedoyo Batik Craft. They have recently opened a third Pecel Solo in Senayan, Jakarta. Bamboo has two other restaurants in Yogya. Ayam Betutu has two warungs in Bali and one in Lombok. Pak Sadi Asli originated in Surabaya, and Yu Sri first opened in Semarang in 1970.

Venezia Café is an interesting exception. It’s owned by a foundation supported by Oxfam Australia and privides training and employment in the hospitality industry. It occasionally hosts entertainment, such as recent Italian film festival, to support its projects: orphanages, education for underprivileged children and support for those affected by HIV/AIDS.

Many establishments are simple sidewalk eateries, but for an elegant up-market experience (Yogya-style, which means chic-casual), try Sasanti, Hyatt’s Kemangi Bistro, and Sawa, which along with Hani’s also serve beer and wine. Hyatt’s restaurants and lounges, of course, also offer cocktails.

Having difficulty deciding where to be in your eating extravaganza? Here are the current must-trys:

Going north from Ring Road Utara, the first stop at No.52 is Pecel Solo, one of several restaurants owned by a family who treasure antiques and authentic Surakarta cuisine. Diners are invited to sit on benches that line the walls or at a grand wooden table in the center of the joglo. For groups or families, there’s a private dining room in the back. Combining good food with traditional culture, and surrounded by antiques, vintage photographs and more than 600 wooden cowbells, Pecel Solo is warm and welcoming. Choose from a large variety of vegetables and condiments, which are eaten with rice and side dishes, such as small fish, friend chicken, tahu or tempe. Top the meal off with a traditional drink made with palm sugar, ginger and pandan, and heaven is yours.

At No.52A (next door to the Hyatt) is Sasanti Restaurant & Gallery. Traditional Indonesian cooking and Western food prepared for Western tastes, together with a relaxing ambience, are Sasanti’s contributions to Jalan Kuliner. Try the bacem kaki kambing (Javanese braised lamb shank), the salmon filet with tropical fruit, tarragon and caper sauce, sandwiches or salads. And don’t forget to save room for the cheesecake, which is divine. There’s live music on Friday and Saturday nights, the kind that’s soft enough to talk over. Enjoy a glass of wine or beer by the reflecting pool in the evening breezes, in the al fresco joglo or in air-conditioned comfort in the private dining room. Sasanti’s lush gardens make it a perfect setting for weddings and parties.

Hani’s North, at Km 7.5, is well established in Yogya, having opened its first outlet in the south of the city several years ago serving sandwiches on freshly baked breads, salads, quiche, and yummy smoothies and lassies. Over time the menu has expanded, with Hani’s North becoming more of a restaurant than the café the original is. Its eclectic menu includes Belgian, Italian, Indian, and Indonesian cuisine, along with other selections from its World Kitchen menu, which includes roasted turkey, pan-fried Merquez (a French sausage) and Moroccan chicken steak. Hani’s North also has a two-bedroom villa behind the restaurant for rent, overlooking rice fields with views of Mt. Merapi.

Past Hani’s, turn right onto Jl. Damai, heading deeper into the countryside. On the right side is the recently opened Sawa, which promises to be one the area’s more up-market establishments. Presenting steaks and grill, Japanese food and a wine bar nestled between paddy fields, the relaxation of clean, fresh air and excellent cuisine will be part of the dining experience.

Continuing on Jl. Damai is Jimbaran, the first and best-known eating establishment in the area. Jimbaran is famous for its ikan bakar (grilled fish), fresh fish flown in from Bali everyday dan displayed pasar ikan-style both live and on ice. Customers select their own fish, with a large overhead blackboard showing current prices, which are per gram, along with the chef’s recommendations. Selections include crab, mahi-mahi, snapper, king prawns, and mussels, which are cooked to order, either grilled or fried. Jimbaran also serves bebek goreng (fried duck, a la Bali) and chicken. Choose from five different sauces, one of which is ideal for not-sp-spicy seafood lovers. Live entertainment is offered every night from 7-11 p.m.

The first left turn after Jimbaran leads to Sapi Bali. Cleverly combining Balinese spices with American barbeque techniques, Sapi Bali’s specialty is beef ribs, which are not found in primarily Hindu Bali. Two secret blends of spices are used, the first while braising the ribs — which takes five hours, to seal in moisture and tenderize the beef — and the second in the glaze of spices, tomato ketchup and honey giving the meat a crunchy, caramelized coating that is mouth-wateringly delicious. Sapi Bali also serves grilled fish and chicken. Warning for those who arent’s into hot spices, skip the soup, and order Iga Bakar Kecap, beef ribs glazed with sweet soya sauce.

Selamat makan di Jogja!

(Source: Weekender Magazine, August 2008