The island of Weh (Pulau Weh) hosts a rich collection of diverse Indo-Pacific marine life. Deep oceanic trenches that surround the island bring nutrient rich waters which in turn attract ocean giants such as mantas, whale sharks, mola mola and even the illusive mega mouth shark has been spotted here on more than one occasion.
Pulau Weh is also well known for its moray eels which pepper the dive sites, honey comb, fimbriated, ghost pipefish, leaf fish, star gazers, frog fish, giant and ribbon eels all make common sightings. Typical topographical features below the surface include reef walls, sloping house reefs, underwater hot springs and a deep and shallow wrecks. With such a variety of first class dive sites, the journey to Pulau Weh is surely worth the extra effort.
THE ISLAND
The name Pulau Weh, or Weh Island, is actually more popular among western tourists who know it by its geographical name. Most Indonesians would know it by its administrative name, Sabang, which is actually the island’s main town. Sabang is the Kilometer Zero Point of Indonesia, marked with a monument which signifies the start of Indonesian archipelago that spans through over 17,000 different islands.
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| Flight route to Pulau Weh |
Once part of the Sumatran mainland, Pulau Weh became separated during a period of seismic activity around 1 million years ago and now lies 20 kilometers offshore from the northern tip of Sumatra. The deep oceanic trenches that surround the island bring nutrient rich waters which in turn attracts tiny critters as well as large pelagics such as mantas, mola mola and whale sharks when the seasons right. The island is located at where the Andaman Sea meets the Indian Ocean, so the deep waters and currents around the island sustain a thriving marine life.
Since the early 1990s, some European tourists have begun to visit the island, drawn to its unexplored beaches and underwater attractions. The long conflict in Aceh between the separatists and Indonesian military never really spread to this island, but it has stunted development here, especially in the tourism sector. That is good news for divers: it means relatively pristine coral reefs and diving trips where you are unlikely to bump into other groups of divers underwater.
The island also offers many attractions for those who prefer to stay above the surface. With an active volcano, there are hot springs to relax in, jungle trails to the high peaks and lots of wild life to see along the way including long tail macaques, monitor lizards and sea eagles. In short, Pulau Weh and its surrounding islands offer a complete tourism potential, ranging from forests, beaches and of course the beauty of underwater adventure.
UNDERWATER
Diving is not a trivial matter in Pulau Weh. There are up to 20 dive spots around the island. One of them is Batee Tokong, a clump of rocks about a 20-minute boat ride from the Gapang beach. Many interesting creatures can be found here, including Moray eels, the giant eel-like predatory fish that hides inside crevices while sticking out their beastly head and jaw. They were everywhere in this spot, and of various species too. The water was crystal clear and visibility was as far as 25 meters. The current was pretty mild.
Another spot is Arus Balee, a water passage around a rocky pinnacle. It was named after the Acehnese word Arus Palee, which means bastard current. The narrow passage facilitates strong current, as well as drawing in sharks and other sea creatures. Here, divers are advised to stay close to the bottom to avoid getting caught in the current. This is a place to enjoy schools of colorful fishes like a neon bright fusilier. It has the feel of a botanical park with a rillian garden of gorgonian fans that spread out majestically.
At Batee Gla dive site, visibility exceeded 35 meters and the currents were swirling round the finger shaped cluster of rocks at the north west point of the island. Along the reef slopes of Rubiah Sea Garden, divers got a chance to spot some the rare marine life that you might only expect from a dive in Indonesian waters. Dart Gobies, Frogfish, Carrier Crabs, Morays of all kinds and many other critters.
Another highlight is the Hot Springs dive site, which has sulphur passed up through the volcanic vents below. Bubbles rise up from large cracks in the sea bed, your very own Jacuzzi in the sea. Pantee Peunateng can also offer a wild experience. This high adrenaline dive site is highly exposed making it an intense experience even when conditions are calmer than most. A fringing reef with dramatic craggy wall sections it has typically strong currents that attract many species of pelagic fish. Black and whitetips are often seen whilst larger fish include whale sharks, mola mola and mantas.
Other are The Canyon (an underwater volcanic stone structure began from 15m up to 50m depth, schooling many big fish, Chub, napoleon wrasse, white-tip shark, mantas, moray, giant travelly, parrotfish bumphead plus sometimes pretty big currents), Flow Balee (for those who like to enjoy the beauty of diving in currents), Beach Ideu (massive gorgonian and exceptional fish), etc. You do not have to go too far from the shore to immerse in the marine life.
The currents around Pulau Weh draw big plankton feeders such as whale sharks and manta rays, which frequent the area in January. Dolphins, sometimes with pods numbering in the hundreds, are also commonly sighted here. Whale sharks have reportedly been seen in the months of September, October, and November, and even once during a night dive only 30 meters off the beach.
There are also two wrecks. The WWII wreck Sophie Rickmer is 134m long cargo vessel that lies in deep waters just off the township of Sabang. With the straight bow lying at over 50m it does require some decompression procedures, but once down you get the chance to meet up with some oversize residents including groupers, morays and sharks. A little shallower at 15m lies the Tug Boat, this is a dive to look for macro life with pipefish, sea horses and scorpion fish not uncommon finds.
THE BEST DIVE TIME
Diving in Pulau Weh can be done throughout the year. However, extra caution is advisable during the rainy season at the end of the year until the beginning of the year.
GETTING THERE
To reach Pulau Weh, the closest entry point is from Banda Aceh, the provincial capital, which can be reached through land routes, sea and air. From Banda Aceh's Balohan Port, take a ferry to Sabang Port. The ferry can carry both passengers and vehicles for the 2-hour ride. Proceed the journey overland using minibuses or taxis to the beach of your choice, with an approximate 45-minute trip.
When you arrive in Sabang Port, there are many cars and minibuses waiting for passengers. With each ferry arrival, a specific minibus (and/or taxi) is appointed to go to the Gapang & Iboih beaches. For taxis count on a minimum of Rp 150.000-200.000 or if shared with others, and Rp 50.000 per person for a Kijang car to take you directly to Gapang Beach. In a minibus it's also Rp 50.000 per person, with negotiation sometimes Rp 40.000 per person. It takes another 40 minutes drive to get to Gapang or Iboih Beach.
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| Gapang Beach |
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| Iboih Beach |
ACCOMMODATION AND DIVE OPERATORS
There are two beaches where dive operators are based here, the Iboih and the Gapang. Iboih is home to the first dive operator in Pulau Weh, the Rubiah Tirta Divers. Located in a 1,300 ha protected park it is more frequented by backpackers than Gapang. Iboih is closest to Pulau Rubiah, which is Weh’s reef-encircled sister island. The beach has a few small cafes and restaurants serving international and western style food. You can stay at the two famous lodgings in Iboih:
- The Pade Dive Resort
Built in 2011, The Pade Dive Resort is a distinct addition to Aceh and a smart choice for travelers. Situated only 20.00 Km from the city center, guests are well located to enjoy the town's attractions and activities. The Pade Dive Resort offers impeccable service and all the essential amenities to invigorate travelers. Meeting facilities, Wi-Fi in public areas, tours, coffee shop, room service are just a few of the facilities that set The Pade Dive Resort apart from other hotels in the city. The ambiance of The Pade Dive Resort is reflected in every guestroom. hair dryer, balcony/terrace, television LCD/plasma screen, desk, internet access – wireless (complimentary) are just some of the facilities at your disposal. The hotel offers an excellent variety of recreational facilities, including garden, water sports (non-motorized).
Room rates start from USD 68. Reserve a room HERE.
- Iboih Inn
For travelers who want to take in the sights and sounds of Aceh, Iboih Inn is the perfect choice. The facilities and services provided by Iboih Inn ensure a pleasant stay for guests. The hotel offers access to a vast array of services, including bicycle rental, tours, restaurant, laundry service, Wi-Fi in public areas. The complete list of recreational facilities is available at the hotel, including garden, water sports (non-motorized).
Room rates start from USD 29. Reserve a room HERE.
Gapang beach has a wider variety of accommodation, from basic wooden huts on the beach, or simple bungalows spread out along the hill overlooking the bay, to those with spring beds, shower and a choice of fans or air conditioners. Prices range from 3.5 euros to 20 euros per night. The beach is a short stretch of white sand with large overhanging trees, the Gapang trees, and small cafes offering the standard fare of fried rice, fried noodles, pancakes, and curry. Although alcohol is banned in Aceh because of syariah law, it is generally sold at some of these cafes.
The bungalow at Lumba-lumba Dive Resorts, for example, costs 30 Euros (~USD 40). About five by six sqm, it has neither AC nor TV, but it has a small pantry with a fridge, a modern toilet and shower, and numerous (we’re talking numerous!) power sockets at various locations on the wall. Underwater photographers and gadget freaks need not be worried about recharging their gear here.
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