Mixing A Lonely Mountain with Premium Class Coffee
Mount Ijen in East Java
is a mysterious, spectacularly beautiful place to visit. Gunung Ijen is
Javanese for “Lonely Mountain”. The Hindu kings of the Majapahit era climbed
the volcano to meditate and strengthen their inner power. At that time, the
Ijen Massive was probably still a twin volcano more than 4000 meters high.
Presumably the mountain blew itself up at the end of 16th century,
leaving a caldera 16 kilometers wide, one of the biggest in the world. Locals
believe this disaster might have been behind the downfall of the great
Majapahit empire.
In 1894, Dutchman Davit
Bernie settled on the fertile Ijen plateau, where he found the ideal conditions
for his coffee plants. Javanese coffee was so famous by then that the traders
from other regions in the world applied the name “Java” to their beans to boost
sales. Today the vast highland is famous for its coffee plantations. The locals
are very proud of their coffee, claiming it is one of the few places in the
world where the old Arabica Typica trees preserved. The coffee plantations of
Blawan, Jampit, and Kalisat produce beans of the highest export quality. From
May to September, state-owned company PT Perkebunan Nusantara XII harvests up
to 180 tons of the red coffee beries each day. They are peeled, washed, and
fermented on the same day, then left to dry in the sun for three weeks.
From Ijen plateau, a
small road leads to Banyuwangi, the nearest city. Tourists rumble over the
spreading potholes in rented jeeps, enjoying the safari-like adventure. Some 20
years ago, villagers say, tigers still roamed the area. The drive leads through
dense forest and then plantations again — planters here also grow cocoa,
cloves, and rubber. Halfway down, a small trail turns off the main road,
winding through lush rice terraces, which can easily compete with the most
picturesque fields on nearby Bali.
Finally,
when it really does feel like being in the middle of nowhere, the path offers
another surprise, leading to the door of a luxury hotel. When Ijen Resorts
opened in this remote area around five years ago, many thought its owners
crazy. They were soon proved wrong: the villas are often fully booked with
mainly European guests keen on climbing Mount Ijen or honeymooners seeking
seclusion.
While
honeymooners and tired mountaineers relax beside the pool of the resort’s
open-air restaurant, local children herd cows or geese toward their villages
and farmers work in their rice fields. From the top of the stairs, the view of
the surrounding mountains throws the visitor into a loop. A dark rock pool with
natural spring water seems to flow directly into the rice terraces around the
manicured garden.
TRAVEL TIPS
Getting
There
Car rental is the best
option. Ijen is a five-hour drive from Denpasar (including ferry), six hours
from Surabaya. Banyuwangi is an hour away. Alternatively, take the train from
Surabaya of the bus from Denpasar to Banyuwangi, and complete the journey using
local transport.
Places to Stay
Arabika Homestay
Simple, modern guesthouse
at Kalisat coffee plantation. Overnight stays at the colonial mansions of
Blawan and Jampit plantations can also be arranged here.
Tel: +62-31-352 4893-95.
Website: www.ptpn12.com
Ijen Resorts
and Villas
The French-managed hotel
and bungalow resort stands in the middle of rice terraces and volcanoes. The
resort has an open-air restaurant and a swimming pool with natural spring
water.
Tel: +62-333-429 000
Both places organize jeeps
and guided tours to Mount Ijen or the plantations.
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